The island, at your pace

Take a wooden boat out to the An Thoi archipelago — a scatter of tiny islands ringed with coral. Snorkel over technicolour reefs, swim in glassy water, and eat grilled fish on a deck over the sea.

The island comes alive after dark at the Dinh Cau night market. Wander stalls of sizzling seafood, tropical fruit, and Vietnamese sweets, and pick up a bottle of the island's famous fish sauce or peppercorns to take home.

Phu Quoc is famous for two things — black pepper and fish sauce. Visit a family-run pepper farm, walk the fragrant rows, and stop at a traditional nuoc mam distillery to understand the island's deepest flavours.

Ong Lang Beach faces west, which means the sunsets are extraordinary. Borrow one of our kayaks and paddle out as the sky turns gold and pink — the calmest, most beautiful hour on the island, and it's on the house.

On the island's east coast, the stilt houses of Ham Ninh stretch out over the water. Walk the long pier, watch the boats come in, and choose your lunch straight from the tanks — crab, mantis shrimp and sea snails at their freshest.

More than half the island is protected forest. Trek shaded trails through the national park to hidden streams and viewpoints, with a good chance of spotting long-tailed macaques and hornbills along the way.